Firlefanz.org

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The sun woke us pretty early today around 6:45. Unfortunately the tent was wet from morning dew so we could not use this early momentum to make a quick get away. So we had a relaxed breakfast and the cow which was so interested in our presence yesterday could be petted today after Benni waited at the fence for a little bit. When I tried to pet it the cow went shamelessly straight for licking first my hand (cow tongue feels a little bit like cat tongue) and then me, I felt attacked.

We packed the ever smaller luggage and rejoined the TET. Riding today was consistently demanding but not terribly difficult, just very few sections to simply relax. We rode some single tracks and some rocky sections. Before a toll station we chose to take a rest and had waffles with sour cream and strawberry jam (apparently a Norwegian classic) and coffee.

This time the waffels were more as we expected them to be. Soft and waffely. The environment felt quite touristic, since it was a ski-area in the winter, but the location itself felt cosy. The host was just opening up and bringing lots and lots of eggs. As he served some other people, he turned to us and asked if we wanted some waffles. I agreed and ordered two coffee as well. The place was perfect, since it had not only a bathroom with running water – so I could finally clean my goggles – but also power and internet. Thus we sat down an made huge progress in setting up this blog. Restrengthened we paid the toll and rode a very nice road through the fjell (word for the Scandinavian mountain ridges, typically treeless and covered in moss or bushes or just granite).

After that followed some more sandy tracks around some lakes and as it had not rained for a couple of days I got very dusty from following Benni, combined with the bright sun a less than ideal view ensued. After the lakes it was back into the mountains again, some rocky sections that tested all of the ground clearance of my motorcycle. When we took a break we realized we did not have any water left for boiling coffee or drinking.

The break in the wonderful landscape was slightly stained by thirst but we still enjoyed the scenery and the sun quite a bit. From here on my own mood got pretty downhill, the combination of dust, being blinded whenever we headed towards the sun, being slightly too hot and thirsty (those two usually go together) made it hard for me to enjoy the really nice riding. After a seemingly endless ride we came by a gas station filled up but they did not have a accessible tap so we continued for whatever reason determined not to spend money on water, like we did yesterday. The next section felt even worse but soon we came to another town and finally found a tap. Instead of just filling up and leaving we splashed out the money for some ice cream sat down and relaxed for a bit.

It was already getting late and we had still not finished the planned distance for today, so we headed out again this time more relaxed than before. I was getting worried, where to find a proper camp spot, as many of the just ridden kilometers did not offer a nice place. We followed the TET out of town up some mountain leading road and got to a toll booth. We shelled out the 50 NOK each and just wanted to finish todays leg. We rode up the mountain road and its condition for a toll-road were less than ideal, but still a lot of fun on the bikes. At its end we reached a wonderful and high viewing point, met a pair of tourists from Dresden, had a coffee with some of the last juice of our first gas can and then drove back down.

We decided to make the most of our toll and spend the night in the nice scenery. It was also the more sensible thing to do. After some coffee at the antenna on top of the mountain we felt quite replenished. We had to realize that this new found energy should not be wasted, but used to set up, cook and enjoy the view. We pitched the tent on some moss, slightly off camber and made spaghetti with tomato sauce, the alltime traveling classic. As we started to eat a Norwegian Hiker came by, she spend the day with her dog in the mountains walking around a lake and taking a dip in its still pretty cold water.

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We were awoken by sunshine and the alarm at 7:00. Benni got up right away and cooked some coffee. The night was very quiet and the temperatures just right for the sleeping bags we brought. Feeling very refreshed I got up to claim my share of coffee. For breakfast we prepared some porridge enhanced with some apple and banana slices. I spent a long time carefully packing all of my stuff into the duffle after I decided to switch out the places of tent and tools. When everything was stowed away there was still some space on the other side of the duffle so today I managed to pack everything into it-success! The weather was still fine and there was no need for jacket liners and I rode the whole day with all ventilation slits opened. We started riding along good quality gravel roads. The trail became looser and more sandy. All along it was in mountainous terrain and we faced the first difficult part of the day. Prolonged ($\approx 500~m$) of very loose sand). I started swaying left and right and had trouble to find traction as I started the hill in 3rd gear instead of 2nd. With some clutching and more gas I made it almost up and then my rear end washed out and I fell gently on the shoulder of the road. Bummer.

Benni stopped still far downhill and as the bike did not lay flat on its side getting it back upright was no major problem even in the loose sand. Getting started again once I switched into first was not too bad. Some tire spin and I was riding again. The trail widened up a bit and I relaxed again thinking I passed the major difficulty for today pretty early in the day. After a tighter descent through rocky narrow trail we crossed a smaller stream and after a tight left-right we faced the real difficult part of today: A steep very loose hill with a steep drop off on the left side, just after a small river crossing in the vally. This time I was in the right gear but was still caught by surprise of the severity of the incline. Basically the same mistake happened again, my rear washed out and I found myself leaning on the right shoulder of the hill. I looked downhill and saw Benni failing in a more spectacular fashion swerving to the right, nearly missing a tree and ending up balancing the bike on the drop off of the bank (he was still pretty close to the “ground” though).

I left my bike as it was and went downhill and together we pushed and pulled until the bike was standing even though every last angle of its left side was now covered in sand. With that done we collected our thoughts and breathed for a bit. We decided to get my bike uphill first and after some trouble of getting back started again, resorting to walking it up the hill for a bit. Once I got going again the hill tapered of in incline after 50~m and by following a deeper rut, probably made by a predecessor, made it up the whole hill. Benni tried his second attempt with a shorter runup this time. He got stuck at the position of my fall and with combined efforts we got him through that spot as well. Stopping in deep sand, right with a root in front of the tire. On the top of the hill we were pretty sweaty and exhausted and decided to ride for a bit to cool down. After some easy trails (every loose-ish section now seemed pretty tame) we got to a nice lake and had a break to drink and have some food and found a pair of sunglasses.

After some TET highway section (gravel roads with speeds up to 100 km/h) we arrived at a grocery store. After some shopping with squeeky boots and some canned fish for lunch we were approached by a Norwegian guy. He asked us if we rode the TET, which we agreed. He asked us if we rode the steep, sandy section and told us that this was probably the most difficult section of the TET. He now owns a KTM EXC 500, for which he had new tires in his van. Niklas asked how long they’ll probably last. 2000 km? He laughed. No. Probably less. He also asked us about a closed section. We needed to circumvent, since it was closed by a locked barrier and big stones right next to it’s sides. With his light MX bike he did snug under the barrier and he continued to tell us about private owned streets. He’s about to attend an offroad meetup in six days, unfortunately it is too late for us to come by and visit. Despite having a small fun bike, he thinks about getting the same bike as me, as he wants to travel longer distances too.
The store had no toilet or any tabs, so we had to buy water (we were completely empty by now). 5 euro for 3 litres sparkly water and we were on our way. Nice and easy riding continued. Up a mountain road with spectacular view and curvy gravel roads.
We made another stop at a river with sitting accommodations. All the way some sheep stood or lay on the street (or just next to it). They were totally unimpressed by us passing. Sometimes just one got up and moved to give way, as the others just turned their heads.
Almost all the way to the top of a mountain there was a toll both and we had to pay 2,5 euro per motorcycle. Funnily all the electronic equipment inside the toll booth (which looked like a kiosk at a camping site operated by an old lady) was powered by cigarette lighter plugs, including the EC-terminal. It really was worth it.
Just before arriving back in civilization, the nice and easy gravel road twists turned into a small and quite steep track inside the woods down into the valley. We finally stocked up on normal water for cooking dinner. The gas station in the valley was right next to a bigger highway and well visited. About three super markets were next to it and a small artificial lake. Children were cooling down in it and giant shiny chrome mammoth skull decorated its side.

Riding longer distance than planned and later into the evening than usual we came to the point that any camping spot will do the job. As fast as we arrived in the town, we were out again and climbed serpentine’s just to arrive back at 1000 m above zero, with an even more scenic view at the Norwegian mountains and the setting sun. Thus the spot we found wasn’t any spot too, but rather deluxe, with cowbells ringing as the only sound to be heard – accompanied by the sound of coffee being done.\
The broccoli-rice soup was delicious and we tried to speak to the cows by moo-ing. All of them stopped eating grass and looked at us, like the foreigners we are. We probably spoke the wrong accent, as they did not even try to answer. As we lay in the tent, with mosquitoes just shy out of reach on the other side, one cow came as close as it could and was very interested in our doings.