Day 3 – Cruising

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After a good night of a sleep in a slightly too hot room Biljana got up and cooked some coffee for the three of us. We had breakfast with her nice self baked bread, fried eggs and butter. After that I got downstairs and replaced the cable on the motorcycle and found a setting with less hand force and equal still not perfect separation, while Benni set up his suspension and moved the handlebar in a more forward position. Yesterday a short trail section in the forest with low hanging foliage and lots of insects showed me that a helmet with some goggles would actually allow decent breathing with eye protection in critical moments. So we drove to elit mc, almost forgot gloves there, but they had no nice helmets that fit well. Too bad since the dealer had products from many premium brands and as well as the finest selection of motorcycles: BMW on the entrance followed by KTM on the left side and Ducati on the right side. Depending on your rather on or off-road orientation.
So we drove to cross bike store, no Helmets with visors in sight and their garage was booked out for the next three weeks so they wouldn’t check out the slight front tire wobble Benni suspected. We were stoked about the MX-stuff in stock and that they really just serve non-steet bikes.
We tried the Arai X4 helmet at Handelsbotten in Mölndal, which were very nice but expensive. Like really too expensive. I wouldn’t know a more expensive helmet from the toop of my head.
Without getting anything done and a slightly ditched mindset (why seem so many drivers in cities not able to drive properly?) we got back to Biljanas. Benni tried to do some remote IT support to solve a mystery of missing, definitely saved files from the day before and the main offender: automatic windows updates. Meanwhile Niklas served 1.5~l of ice-cream in total (Kladdkaka flavoured) to lift the mood. Finally we were able to pack our stuff get going, but not without loosing one another of too many fights with our Garmin navigation systems and re-discussing the stuff to ‘really’ take with us and its distribution among the two motorcycles

We drove down until Ulricehamn on the highway and had a short stop in Borås asking for some bar risers at a KTM store (which also accommodated lawn mowers.). On our way to the TET we had some slight drizzles but did not get too wet. We rejoined the TET and our yesterdays fight with Garmin seemed to pay off, as at least Niklas was able to route* the track without major hiccups.
(*’routing’ in the technical terms of getting the navigation system to tell you when to turn and where)
So we followed the track along some nice gravel roads and twisty tarmac through the nice Swedish countryside consisting of lakes, forests and tiny villages and farms. When we re-checked our location after a couple of dubious turns and no gravel for too long we realized our routing didn’t work as expected. Bummer. So it was back to just follow the line on the map. We got back to the TET and when leaving a village the sharp speed bumps slingshot Bennis smaller luggage back of the back of the motorcycle and onto the road. It tumbled a bit and thankfully there was no traffic so we could salvage it without too much harm, still there was some broken herb bottles (it is the food bag after all) and some damage to DICK’s adventure pack (with us since our first tour together). We were also surprised by a random deer jumping into our way, clearly stopping in time would not have been possible and as it was too close for comfort. We followed the TET some more, now almost only consisting of gravel with some more difficult sections. We encountered my first loose sand. What a shock to feel so utterly out of control. We took a short break as we misturned anyway and while backtracking the sand felt fine. Instead of the usual firm-ish connection between handlebar position and direction of travel sand seems to need a loose and relaxed approach to turning while still maintaining decent momentum. Otherwise wild swinging of the rear or a washing out front occur. Lesson learned hopefully. We continued on the most difficult section for 2 more km’s and then had some easier gravel roads again. A clearing presented itself at a T-junction together with a bank to sit (it was our make-shift table for cooking) and we decided to call it a day. I put up the tent and Benni started cooking some rice with tomato sauce. It was sunny and except for the buzzing flies almost perfect. When we started eating the slightly burned rice (dosing the gas with new pots always takes some getting used to) the trail spitted out three more motorcycles ( a original Honda Africa twin, a newer Triumph tiger and a beaten Kawasaki dual sport). We chatted a bit with the three guys as the child stayed silent and they decided to move on for a bit until the next wind shelter to stay the night there. They too were following the TET. After dinner there was some coffee and a dessert müsli bar. We aired down our tires a bit (2.1 rear, 1.9 in the front for now), tried to use the compressor to air our mattresses to no avail and fiddled around on the motorcycles a bit and thus the active part of the day ended. Later on a weird howling could be heard, we think it should have been a dog, he sounded very hoarse though. Benni modified his helmet a bit to make his ears fit better while I worked on the diary.

Day 2 – Travel to Gothenburg

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Sleep on the ferry was ferry-sleep. We tried sleeping on the outer deck, but it was too windy. Especially the hands got cold with no way to keep them warm, without a sleeping bag. Too bad I left my gloves at the motorcycle. I should have slept with all my mc-gear on. It would have not needed much more, since I didn’t change at all. Due to the wind, we moved from the initial nice spot with the broken lamp closer to the door, just to finally move into the staircase several sleepless minutes later. Unfortunately there was not enough space to put the (nice extra long 195 cm) mattresses fully, without blocking a door or the stairs in a way. We did it anyways. After 3 hours of spotty sleep in a well lit room we got up at 5:30 and went to the motorcycles. My new merino buff did a very good job of being a sleeping mask and spending darkness without to much warmth anywhere else in the face. Just the 3-4 people walking by without any motivation of being quiet interrupted the sleep quite well. Getting off the ferry was no problem, as we were the first out after a travel-bus that parked in front of the exit. We drove to the first gas station after the ferry and the last in Trelleborg before the E6, filled up on gas and prepared the first coffee on new grounds on day one of the journey. We enjoyed it together with a flapjack (mine was chocolate flavoured). Regards to Aneska, who left some in my tank bag since the last motorcycle trip to cz. In the mean while two german motorcyclists (Honda CBF600 / BMW GSA1200) arrived at the gas station and were baffled by the self service system that is the norm in Sweden. We A short explanation and a somehow unfriendly polite chat (they were headed towards Nordkap as well) we got going. We already encountered them at the ferry-dinner and they didn’t seem to want contact (even though I was clearly noticeable as motorcyclist). We drove up to Malmö and from there on we followed the first leg of Sweden’s TET.
This took us over lovely small roads through tiny villages, hillsides of freshly mowed hay and smaller forests. Usually I just pass through southern Sweden via the E6 so I never saw the more beautiful back-country. The TET started out mostly on asphalt but soon gravel took over. It was of good quality sometimes freshly paved and thus a little bit loose in the front. Washboards were seldom. We had to deal with a little bit of loose rocks and grass but as it was dry there was no real problem, Benni almost washed out once. Then as focusing became harder we decided to take a break and have some porridge.
After all this crescendo of difficulty was the perfect entry into ‘offroad motorcycling’ with enough patches of very nice street riding. For the porridge breakfast we found a small windbreak right next to the street.
Obviously we had to try the thermarest chairs and were pleasantly surprised. Especially in combination with resting the back of the head on the motorcycle it’s the most formidable sitting accommodation a traveler would ever want.
We had just unpacked and started cooking water for porridge when it began to drizzle. Moving the chairs inside and using the bank of the shed as table another attraction appeared, as a quad drove by, followed by a woman on a horse. The quad driver sat on the quad sideways and we wondered what they’re trying to accomplish. As Niklas noticed they tried to get the horse to tjölt.
After following the TET some more, we took a more direct route to gotenburg, which was quite scenic until we entered the highway for the last 50 km. Garmins ‚adventurous routing‘ did quite a good job, when we left TET for Gothenburg.